ELMS Scooter Club
ELMS Scooter Club - The Drinking Club with the Scooter Problem! Based in East London.
May 23, 2012, 11:32:50 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
Did you miss your activation email?

Login with username, password and session length
Welcome to the ELMS Scooter Clubs forum!
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Gallery Links GoogleTagged Login Register Contact US  

Top 100 scooter sites  Visit The ELMS SC Online Shop
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Cyclone C-11 Talking alarm and Immobiliser System.  (Read 1515 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
neesos
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4

OS:
Windows Vista Windows Vista
Browser:
Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0 Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0


« on: January 26, 2011, 10:28:47 PM »

HELP!!!!!   Just got myself a Cyclone C-11 Talking alarm and Immobiliser System. and has any body got any ideas as the best way to fit it to a 2008 125 LML Star Deluxe, got the wiring plan but not much good at electrics and don't want to knacker the scoots electrics. Cheers... confuseds
Logged
Worz
Administrator
Ultimate Scooterist!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4462

OS:
Windows Server 2003 Windows Server 2003
Browser:
Firefox 3.6.13 Firefox 3.6.13


WWW
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2011, 01:11:27 PM »

Hi neesos,
 Sorry, but can't help too much on this.

All I can suggest to you is that the 12 volt live and earth from the alarm should go straight to the battery. The only things on your scooter that run from the battery are the electric starter motor and the horn. Everything else runs on a/c current, so there's not point connecting it up to anywhere else other than the battery itself, which is 12 volts d/c. Make sure there is a 5 amp fuse in the live wire (usually red) to the alarm box. Red wire goes to + and black wire goes to - on battery.

If you have a spare wheel under the left side-panel, you're going to be pushed for space to fit the alarm box and speaker, but depending on size, it may fit. There's not really anywhere else on the scoot where it could go. If you have extra wires on the alarm for indicators flashing when the alarm goes off etc, remove them from the alarm box as they won't work on a scooter. Even if they did, it would be a nightmare trying to route the wires through the frame. A motion sensor on the alarm should work fine. Make sure you put a cellophane bag over each alarm component and seal the bag with tape to stop moisture affecting the components. If you don't want to drill holes to affix the components, consider using plastic ties.
Logged
neesos
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4

OS:
Windows Vista Windows Vista
Browser:
Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0 Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0


« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2011, 05:51:51 PM »

Cheers, thanks that gives me a little insight of how to do it.... icon_thumright
Logged
neesos
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4

OS:
Windows Vista Windows Vista
Browser:
Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0 Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0


« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2011, 08:30:22 PM »

Think I got it sussed as to how to fit an alarm to a 125 LML Star Dluxe but would like to feed the wire from the battery to the horn casting, is there anyway this can be done without a full strip down. Thanks…

Logged
Worz
Administrator
Ultimate Scooterist!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4462

OS:
Windows Server 2003 Windows Server 2003
Browser:
Firefox 3.6.13 Firefox 3.6.13


WWW
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2011, 01:01:46 PM »

Only possible way to do it, is to remove the seat and the fuel tank.

This is a step-by-step of the way I do it. Rather involved but it's the only way I've ever been able to do this...

Tools Needed:
Hose and fuel can for syphoning fuel from tank.
Small flat screwdriver.
Medium sized phillips screwdriver (crosshead, preferably magnetic).
Pliers.
Insulation tape or duct tape.
Outer gear or outer clutch cable.
13mm spanner or socket.
10mm spanner.
17mm open ended spanner.

Preliminaries:
Get a bit of garden hose or rubber pipe. Syphon all petrol into a petrol can (makes tank easier to handle later and saves losing any fuel).
Remove right side-panel. Remove 2 phillips screws on top of carb box and remove the top. You may have to pry top up with a screwdriver.
Remove 2 flat screws and remove air filter from top of carb.
Use a 10mm open ended spanner to unbolt fuel banjo from carb. Pull banjo away from carb and remove fibre washer and bolt (keep safe). Push banjo and fuel pipe down as far as it will go without going all the way through bottom of carb box. Fuel pipes are very short so by doing this you are giving it some slack to lift up the tank later.
On the right side of the carb box (outside it) you'll see the oil injection tube. Use a pair of pliers to release the clip that holds the pipe and move the clip a few inches towards the front of the scoot. Pull the pipe away from the carb box. Once off, screw one of the carb top screws into the end of the tube (stops it leaking oil). Put some oil on that tube for a few inches where it enters the frame. Push the tube into the frame those few inches.

Remove seat:
Lift up seat. Remove 2 13 mm bolts from the rear of the fuel tank. Near the seat hinge you'll see 3 13mm bolts. Use a small flat screwdriver to trace around the washers (so the seat will be placed correctly on reassembly). If you don't want to scratch the paint off, you can use a white marker pen instead.
Remove the 3 bolts and washers. Lift seat away.

Remove tank:
On top of fuel tank you'll see a round black cap with a wire going into it. Lift it off with your fingers, then pull the plug out of the fuel gauge sender unit.
Now to the fuel tap area.. In the frame where the fuel tap protrudes you'll see a rubber grommet. The grommet is split at one point. Use a small flat screwdriver to pry it out. Turn the fuel tap so it points straight up. Put your fingers under the rear of the fuel tank and lift upwards. Once the fuel tap is inside the frame you can lift the tank straight upwards. Don't lift it too high as it's still connected to the fuel and oil pipes. Place an old towel across the rear of the frame, turn the fuel tank sideways and rest it on the towel.

Drip Tray and Panel Locks:
Looking into the frame, you'll see a black plastic drip tray for any leaked fuel/oil. Probably one of the most pointless things ever added and very hard to get back into place when removed (I don't put them back in after!). The tray is screwed down either side by the panel locks. Preferably with a magnetic phillips screwdriver, remove the 3 screws from each panel lock. The tray is also a press-fit into the frame. Use a pair of pliers to pull the tray out (Be careful of fingers when it releases).

Horncasing:
Standing at front of scooter, facing it, place a small flat screwdriver under the right side of the badge on the horncasing. Pry the badge away from that side. Undo the phillips screw that sits behind the badge. Open the toolbox door and you'll see 2 more screws that hold the bottom of the horncasing. Remove those. The horn sits in the horncasing, connected by 2 wires. You can either remove the wires and lift the casing away, or, just let it hang there.

Wiring:
Remove left side-panel. Unbolt and remove spare wheel if you have one. You'll see a large rubber grommet where all the wires from the battery area pass into the frame. Feed your wire(s) through that grommet.
Buy an outer clutch or gear cable. An inner cable may not work well so make sure it's an outer cable.
At the front of the scooter, you'll see the wiring loom going down into the frame. Push your outer cable down into this area. It'll come out where the drip tray was. Once it's through, tape your wire(s) to that cable. Pull the outer cable back to the front of the scooter and your wire(s) will follow. If you want to pass the wires into the toolbox, there are rubber grommets for the front indicator wires to the left and right of the steering lock/ignition area.

Reassembly:
Pretty much a reverse of the disassembly. Only things to remember are that the fuel tank has to be put in front downwards first and can be fiddly getting the fuel tap through the hole. Also, before reconnecting the oil pipe, make it drip oil a few times so you don't get an airlock in it.

If this seems a bit much to do and you live within the M25, you can always have me do it for you. Probably take an hour or so. You are not allowed to view links.
Register or Login
http://www.scootercables.com/
Logged
neesos
Newbie
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 4

OS:
Windows Vista Windows Vista
Browser:
Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0 Microsoft Internet Explorer 7.0


« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2011, 09:54:23 PM »

Thanks for the info Worz I'll have ago at it when it gets a bit warmer and I'm feeling brave  lols.... Pity I live in the Durham area or I would take you up on the offer. Cheers Mal.....  winks
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  




Vote for Our Site
Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC | Sitemap Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.087 seconds with 23 queries. (Pretty URLs adds 0.007s, 2q)

Google visited last this page May 08, 2012, 10:17:04 PM